*AI Summary*
*# *Step 1: Analyze and Adopt**
*Domain:* Traditional Craftsmanship / Woodworking (Coopering)
*Persona:* Senior Master Cooper & Traditional Tool Specialist
---
### *Step 2: Summarize (Strict Objectivity)*
*Abstract:*
This technical demonstration details the maintenance, construction, and experimental modification of the hoop driver, a primary hand tool in the coopering trade. The presentation covers the three-component assembly of the driver—comprising the metal shoe, the wooden shaft, and the reinforcing ring—and provides a step-by-step guide on shaft replacement using ash timber. The expert explores material science, comparing the impact-resistance of ash, oak, and hickory, and addresses the "cooper smithing" required to refurbish worn steel shoes. Finally, the demonstration evaluates a "medieval-style" driver featuring a transverse handle, assessing its ergonomic advantages against the speed and efficiency of the standard vertical-shaft driver.
*Tool Maintenance and Experimental Design in Traditional Coopering*
* *0:03 The Anatomy of a Driver:* The driver is identified as an essential tool for tightening cask hoops. It consists of three parts: the shoe (the steel interface that latches onto the hoop), the shaft (the wooden handle that receives the blow), and the ring (the metal collar that prevents the shaft from splitting).
* *1:22 Component Analysis - The Shoe:* The shoe features universal lips on both sides, allowing it to latch onto hoops regardless of orientation. These lips are the primary point of force transfer to the cask.
* *2:01 Material Selection and Vibrations:* While metal shafts have been proposed, wood is the industry standard due to its superior vibration dampening and lighter weight. Ash is the preferred timber in the UK for its resilience, though hickory is noted as a high-performance alternative used in the US. Oak is functional but prone to faster degradation under heavy impact.
* *3:33 The Lifecycle of a Shaft:* Through repeated use, the wooden shaft is compressed ("squished") and shortened. Replacement is necessary when the shaft becomes too short for a comfortable or safe grip.
* *3:40 Shaft Replacement Process:* A new shaft is fabricated by scribing the dimensions of the old shaft onto a block of ash. The taper must be cut slightly oversized on a bandsaw to allow for a precise "friction fit" into the shoe.
* *6:57 Securing the Assembly:* The ring is seated on the top of the shaft. The wood is then "mushroomed" over the ring using a hammer; this intentional deformation prevents the ring from sliding off during use.
* *8:45 Cooper Smithing and Shoe Refurbishment:* Worn shoes with flattened lips can be rescued through forging. The steel is heated to a workable temperature to reform the lip. A critical safety warning is issued regarding "hammer on hammer" strikes: hitting two hardened steel faces together can cause dangerous splintering or tool failure.
* *10:20 The Medieval/European Driver Design:* An experimental driver is constructed by drilling a transverse hole through the shaft and inserting a perpendicular handle (sourced from a broomstick). This design keeps the operator's hand away from the striking zone.
* *14:50 Comparative Testing:* Functional testing of the handled driver reveals improved ergonomics and safety. However, for high-volume production, the standard vertical driver remains the "bread and butter" tool due to its superior speed and lower physical profile (less "cumbersome").
* *16:00 Key Takeaway on Ergonomics:* While traditional tools are optimized for speed, modified designs like the handled driver serve as excellent "learning tools" for novices or for use during long sessions to reduce joint strain and accidental injury.
AI-generated summary created with gemini-3-flash-preview for free via RocketRecap-dot-com. (Input: 28,927 tokens, Output: 793 tokens, Est. cost: $0.0168).Below, I will provide input for an example video (comprising of title, description, and transcript, in this order) and the corresponding abstract and summary I expect. Afterward, I will provide a new transcript that I want a summarization in the same format.
**Please give an abstract of the transcript and then summarize the transcript in a self-contained bullet list format.** Include starting timestamps, important details and key takeaways.
Example Input:
Fluidigm Polaris Part 2- illuminator and camera
mikeselectricstuff
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Fluidigm Polaris part 1 : • Fluidigm Polaris (Part 1) - Biotech g...
Ebay listings: https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/mikeselect...
Merch https://mikeselectricstuff.creator-sp...
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mikeselectricstuff
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40 Comments
@robertwatsonbath
6 hours ago
Thanks Mike. Ooof! - with the level of bodgery going on around 15:48 I think shame would have made me do a board re spin, out of my own pocket if I had to.
1
Reply
@Muonium1
9 hours ago
The green LED looks different from the others and uses phosphor conversion because of the "green gap" problem where green InGaN emitters suffer efficiency droop at high currents. Phosphide based emitters don't start becoming efficient until around 600nm so also can't be used for high power green emitters. See the paper and plot by Matthias Auf der Maur in his 2015 paper on alloy fluctuations in InGaN as the cause of reduced external quantum efficiency at longer (green) wavelengths.
4
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1 reply
@tafsirnahian669
10 hours ago (edited)
Can this be used as an astrophotography camera?
Reply
mikeselectricstuff
·
1 reply
@mikeselectricstuff
6 hours ago
Yes, but may need a shutter to avoid light during readout
Reply
@2010craggy
11 hours ago
Narrowband filters we use in Astronomy (Astrophotography) are sided- they work best passing light in one direction so I guess the arrows on the filter frames indicate which way round to install them in the filter wheel.
1
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@vitukz
12 hours ago
A mate with Channel @extractions&ire could use it
2
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@RobertGallop
19 hours ago
That LED module says it can go up to 28 amps!!! 21 amps for 100%. You should see what it does at 20 amps!
Reply
@Prophes0r
19 hours ago
I had an "Oh SHIT!" moment when I realized that the weird trapezoidal shape of that light guide was for keystone correction of the light source.
Very clever.
6
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@OneBiOzZ
20 hours ago
given the cost of the CCD you think they could have run another PCB for it
9
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@tekvax01
21 hours ago
$20 thousand dollars per minute of run time!
1
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@tekvax01
22 hours ago
"We spared no expense!" John Hammond Jurassic Park.
*(that's why this thing costs the same as a 50-seat Greyhound Bus coach!)
Reply
@florianf4257
22 hours ago
The smearing on the image could be due to the fact that you don't use a shutter, so you see brighter stripes under bright areas of the image as you still iluminate these pixels while the sensor data ist shifted out towards the top. I experienced this effect back at university with a LN-Cooled CCD for Spectroscopy. The stripes disapeared as soon as you used the shutter instead of disabling it in the open position (but fokussing at 100ms integration time and continuous readout with a focal plane shutter isn't much fun).
12
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mikeselectricstuff
·
1 reply
@mikeselectricstuff
12 hours ago
I didn't think of that, but makes sense
2
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@douro20
22 hours ago (edited)
The red LED reminds me of one from Roithner Lasertechnik. I have a Symbol 2D scanner which uses two very bright LEDs from that company, one red and one red-orange. The red-orange is behind a lens which focuses it into an extremely narrow beam.
1
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@RicoElectrico
23 hours ago
PFG is Pulse Flush Gate according to the datasheet.
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@dcallan812
23 hours ago
Very interesting. 2x
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@littleboot_
1 day ago
Cool interesting device
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@dav1dbone
1 day ago
I've stripped large projectors, looks similar, wonder if some of those castings are a magnesium alloy?
Reply
@kevywevvy8833
1 day ago
ironic that some of those Phlatlight modules are used in some of the cheapest disco lights.
1
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1 reply
@bill6255
1 day ago
Great vid - gets right into subject in title, its packed with information, wraps up quickly. Should get a YT award! imho
3
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@JAKOB1977
1 day ago (edited)
The whole sensor module incl. a 5 grand 50mpix sensor for 49 £.. highest bid atm
Though also a limited CCD sensor, but for the right buyer its a steal at these relative low sums.
Architecture Full Frame CCD (Square Pixels)
Total Number of Pixels 8304 (H) × 6220 (V) = 51.6 Mp
Number of Effective Pixels 8208 (H) × 6164 (V) = 50.5 Mp
Number of Active Pixels 8176 (H) × 6132 (V) = 50.1 Mp
Pixel Size 6.0 m (H) × 6.0 m (V)
Active Image Size 49.1 mm (H) × 36.8 mm (V)
61.3 mm (Diagonal),
645 1.1x Optical Format
Aspect Ratio 4:3
Horizontal Outputs 4
Saturation Signal 40.3 ke−
Output Sensitivity 31 V/e−
Quantum Efficiency
KAF−50100−CAA
KAF−50100−AAA
KAF−50100−ABA (with Lens)
22%, 22%, 16% (Peak R, G, B)
25%
62%
Read Noise (f = 18 MHz) 12.5 e−
Dark Signal (T = 60°C) 42 pA/cm2
Dark Current Doubling Temperature 5.7°C
Dynamic Range (f = 18 MHz) 70.2 dB
Estimated Linear Dynamic Range
(f = 18 MHz)
69.3 dB
Charge Transfer Efficiency
Horizontal
Vertical
0.999995
0.999999
Blooming Protection
(4 ms Exposure Time)
800X Saturation Exposure
Maximum Date Rate 18 MHz
Package Ceramic PGA
Cover Glass MAR Coated, 2 Sides or
Clear Glass
Features
• TRUESENSE Transparent Gate Electrode
for High Sensitivity
• Ultra-High Resolution
• Board Dynamic Range
• Low Noise Architecture
• Large Active Imaging Area
Applications
• Digitization
• Mapping/Aerial
• Photography
• Scientific
Thx for the tear down Mike, always a joy
Reply
@martinalooksatthings
1 day ago
15:49 that is some great bodging on of caps, they really didn't want to respin that PCB huh
8
Reply
@RhythmGamer
1 day ago
Was depressed today and then a new mike video dropped and now I’m genuinely happy to get my tear down fix
1
Reply
@dine9093
1 day ago (edited)
Did you transfrom into Mr Blobby for a moment there?
2
Reply
@NickNorton
1 day ago
Thanks Mike. Your videos are always interesting.
5
Reply
@KeritechElectronics
1 day ago
Heavy optics indeed... Spare no expense, cost no object. Splendid build quality. The CCD is a thing of beauty!
1
Reply
@YSoreil
1 day ago
The pricing on that sensor is about right, I looked in to these many years ago when they were still in production since it's the only large sensor you could actually buy. Really cool to see one in the wild.
2
Reply
@snik2pl
1 day ago
That leds look like from led projector
Reply
@vincei4252
1 day ago
TDI = Time Domain Integration ?
1
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@wolpumba4099
1 day ago (edited)
Maybe the camera should not be illuminated during readout.
From the datasheet of the sensor (Onsemi): saturation 40300 electrons, read noise 12.5 electrons per pixel @ 18MHz (quite bad). quantum efficiency 62% (if it has micro lenses), frame rate 1 Hz. lateral overflow drain to prevent blooming protects against 800x (factor increases linearly with exposure time) saturation exposure (32e6 electrons per pixel at 4ms exposure time), microlens has +/- 20 degree acceptance angle
i guess it would be good for astrophotography
4
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@txm100
1 day ago (edited)
Babe wake up a new mikeselectricstuff has dropped!
9
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@vincei4252
1 day ago
That looks like a finger-lakes filter wheel, however, for astronomy they'd never use such a large stepper.
1
Reply
@MRooodddvvv
1 day ago
yaaaaay ! more overcomplicated optical stuff !
4
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1 reply
@NoPegs
1 day ago
He lives!
11
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1 reply
Transcript
0:00
so I've stripped all the bits of the
0:01
optical system so basically we've got
0:03
the uh the camera
0:05
itself which is mounted on this uh very
0:09
complex
0:10
adjustment thing which obviously to set
0:13
you the various tilt and uh alignment
0:15
stuff then there's two of these massive
0:18
lenses I've taken one of these apart I
0:20
think there's something like about eight
0:22
or nine Optical elements in here these
0:25
don't seem to do a great deal in terms
0:26
of electr magnification they're obiously
0:28
just about getting the image to where it
0:29
uh where it needs to be just so that
0:33
goes like that then this Optical block I
0:36
originally thought this was made of some
0:37
s crazy heavy material but it's just
0:39
really the sum of all these Optical bits
0:41
are just ridiculously heavy those lenses
0:43
are about 4 kilos each and then there's
0:45
this very heavy very solid um piece that
0:47
goes in the middle and this is so this
0:49
is the filter wheel assembly with a
0:51
hilariously oversized steper
0:53
motor driving this wheel with these very
0:57
large narrow band filters so we've got
1:00
various different shades of uh
1:03
filters there five Al together that
1:06
one's actually just showing up a silver
1:07
that's actually a a red but fairly low
1:10
transmission orangey red blue green
1:15
there's an excess cover on this side so
1:16
the filters can be accessed and changed
1:19
without taking anything else apart even
1:21
this is like ridiculous it's like solid
1:23
aluminium this is just basically a cover
1:25
the actual wavelengths of these are um
1:27
488 525 570 630 and 700 NM not sure what
1:32
the suffix on that perhaps that's the uh
1:34
the width of the spectral line say these
1:37
are very narrow band filters most of
1:39
them are you very little light through
1:41
so it's still very tight narrow band to
1:43
match the um fluoresence of the dies
1:45
they're using in the biochemical process
1:48
and obviously to reject the light that's
1:49
being fired at it from that Illuminator
1:51
box and then there's a there's a second
1:53
one of these lenses then the actual sort
1:55
of samples below that so uh very serious
1:58
amount of very uh chunky heavy Optics
2:01
okay let's take a look at this light
2:02
source made by company Lumen Dynamics
2:04
who are now part of
2:06
excelitas self-contained unit power
2:08
connector USB and this which one of the
2:11
Cable Bundle said was a TTL interface
2:14
USB wasn't used in uh the fluid
2:17
application output here and I think this
2:19
is an input for um light feedback I
2:21
don't if it's regulated or just a measur
2:23
measurement facility and the uh fiber
2:27
assembly
2:29
Square Inlet there and then there's two
2:32
outputs which have uh lens assemblies
2:35
and this small one which goes back into
2:37
that small Port just Loops out of here
2:40
straight back in So on this side we've
2:42
got the electronics which look pretty
2:44
straightforward we've got a bit of power
2:45
supply stuff over here and we've got
2:48
separate drivers for each wavelength now
2:50
interesting this is clearly been very
2:52
specifically made for this application
2:54
you I was half expecting like say some
2:56
generic drivers that could be used for a
2:58
number of different things but actually
3:00
literally specified the exact wavelength
3:02
on the PCB there is provision here for
3:04
385 NM which isn't populated but this is
3:07
clearly been designed very specifically
3:09
so these four drivers look the same but
3:10
then there's two higher power ones for
3:12
575 and
3:14
520 a slightly bigger heat sink on this
3:16
575 section there a p 24 which is
3:20
providing USB interface USB isolator the
3:23
USB interface just presents as a comport
3:26
I did have a quick look but I didn't
3:27
actually get anything sensible um I did
3:29
dump the Pi code out and there's a few
3:31
you a few sort of commands that you
3:32
could see in text but I didn't actually
3:34
manage to get it working properly I
3:36
found some software for related version
3:38
but it didn't seem to want to talk to it
3:39
but um I say that wasn't used for the
3:41
original application it might be quite
3:42
interesting to get try and get the Run
3:44
hours count out of it and the TTL
3:46
interface looks fairly straightforward
3:48
we've got positions for six opto
3:50
isolators but only five five are
3:52
installed so that corresponds with the
3:54
unused thing so I think this hopefully
3:56
should be as simple as just providing a
3:57
ttrl signal for each color to uh enable
4:00
it a big heat sink here which is there I
4:03
think there's like a big S of metal
4:04
plate through the middle of this that
4:05
all the leads are mounted on the other
4:07
side so this is heat sinking it with a
4:09
air flow from a uh just a fan in here
4:13
obviously don't have the air flow
4:14
anywhere near the Optics so conduction
4:17
cool through to this plate that's then
4:18
uh air cooled got some pots which are
4:21
presumably power
4:22
adjustments okay let's take a look at
4:24
the other side which is uh much more
4:27
interesting see we've got some uh very
4:31
uh neatly Twisted cable assemblies there
4:35
a bunch of leads so we've got one here
4:37
475 up here 430 NM 630 575 and 520
4:44
filters and dcro mirrors a quick way to
4:48
see what's white is if we just shine
4:49
some white light through
4:51
here not sure how it is is to see on the
4:54
camera but shining white light we do
4:55
actually get a bit of red a bit of blue
4:57
some yellow here so the obstacle path
5:00
575 it goes sort of here bounces off
5:03
this mirror and goes out the 520 goes
5:07
sort of down here across here and up
5:09
there 630 goes basically straight
5:13
through
5:15
430 goes across there down there along
5:17
there and the 475 goes down here and
5:20
left this is the light sensing thing
5:22
think here there's just a um I think
5:24
there a photo diode or other sensor
5:26
haven't actually taken that off and
5:28
everything's fixed down to this chunk of
5:31
aluminium which acts as the heat
5:32
spreader that then conducts the heat to
5:33
the back side for the heat
5:35
sink and the actual lead packages all
5:38
look fairly similar except for this one
5:41
on the 575 which looks quite a bit more
5:44
substantial big spay
5:46
Terminals and the interface for this
5:48
turned out to be extremely simple it's
5:50
literally a 5V TTL level to enable each
5:54
color doesn't seem to be any tensity
5:56
control but there are some additional
5:58
pins on that connector that weren't used
5:59
in the through time thing so maybe
6:01
there's some extra lines that control
6:02
that I couldn't find any data on this uh
6:05
unit and the um their current product
6:07
range is quite significantly different
6:09
so we've got the uh blue these
6:13
might may well be saturating the camera
6:16
so they might look a bit weird so that's
6:17
the 430
6:18
blue the 575
6:24
yellow uh
6:26
475 light blue
6:29
the uh 520
6:31
green and the uh 630 red now one
6:36
interesting thing I noticed for the
6:39
575 it's actually it's actually using a
6:42
white lead and then filtering it rather
6:44
than using all the other ones are using
6:46
leads which are the fundamental colors
6:47
but uh this is actually doing white and
6:50
it's a combination of this filter and
6:52
the dichroic mirrors that are turning to
6:55
Yellow if we take the filter out and a
6:57
lot of the a lot of the um blue content
7:00
is going this way the red is going
7:02
straight through these two mirrors so
7:05
this is clearly not reflecting much of
7:08
that so we end up with the yellow coming
7:10
out of uh out of there which is a fairly
7:14
light yellow color which you don't
7:16
really see from high intensity leads so
7:19
that's clearly why they've used the
7:20
white to uh do this power consumption of
7:23
the white is pretty high so going up to
7:25
about 2 and 1 half amps on that color
7:27
whereas most of the other colors are
7:28
only drawing half an amp or so at 24
7:30
volts the uh the green is up to about
7:32
1.2 but say this thing is uh much
7:35
brighter and if you actually run all the
7:38
colors at the same time you get a fairly
7:41
reasonable um looking white coming out
7:43
of it and one thing you might just be
7:45
out to notice is there is some sort
7:46
color banding around here that's not
7:49
getting uh everything s completely
7:51
concentric and I think that's where this
7:53
fiber optic thing comes
7:58
in I'll
8:00
get a couple of Fairly accurately shaped
8:04
very sort of uniform color and looking
8:06
at What's um inside here we've basically
8:09
just got this Square Rod so this is
8:12
clearly yeah the lights just bouncing
8:13
off all the all the various sides to um
8:16
get a nice uniform illumination uh this
8:19
back bit looks like it's all potted so
8:21
nothing I really do to get in there I
8:24
think this is fiber so I have come
8:26
across um cables like this which are
8:27
liquid fill but just looking through the
8:30
end of this it's probably a bit hard to
8:31
see it does look like there fiber ends
8:34
going going on there and so there's this
8:36
feedback thing which is just obviously
8:39
compensating for the any light losses
8:41
through here to get an accurate
8:43
representation of uh the light that's
8:45
been launched out of these two
8:47
fibers and you see uh
8:49
these have got this sort of trapezium
8:54
shape light guides again it's like a
8:56
sort of acrylic or glass light guide
9:00
guess projected just to make the right
9:03
rectangular
9:04
shape and look at this Center assembly
9:07
um the light output doesn't uh change
9:10
whether you feed this in or not so it's
9:11
clear not doing any internal Clos Loop
9:14
control obviously there may well be some
9:16
facility for it to do that but it's not
9:17
being used in this
9:19
application and so this output just
9:21
produces a voltage on the uh outle
9:24
connector proportional to the amount of
9:26
light that's present so there's a little
9:28
diffuser in the back there
9:30
and then there's just some kind of uh
9:33
Optical sensor looks like a
9:35
chip looking at the lead it's a very
9:37
small package on the PCB with this lens
9:40
assembly over the top and these look
9:43
like they're actually on a copper
9:44
Metalized PCB for maximum thermal
9:47
performance and yeah it's a very small
9:49
package looks like it's a ceramic
9:51
package and there's a thermister there
9:53
for temperature monitoring this is the
9:56
475 blue one this is the 520 need to
9:59
Green which is uh rather different OB
10:02
it's a much bigger D with lots of bond
10:04
wise but also this looks like it's using
10:05
a phosphor if I shine a blue light at it
10:08
lights up green so this is actually a
10:10
phosphor conversion green lead which
10:12
I've I've come across before they want
10:15
that specific wavelength so they may be
10:17
easier to tune a phosphor than tune the
10:20
um semiconductor material to get the uh
10:23
right right wavelength from the lead
10:24
directly uh red 630 similar size to the
10:28
blue one or does seem to have a uh a
10:31
lens on top of it there is a sort of red
10:33
coloring to
10:35
the die but that doesn't appear to be
10:38
fluorescent as far as I can
10:39
tell and the white one again a little
10:41
bit different sort of much higher
10:43
current
10:46
connectors a makeer name on that
10:48
connector flot light not sure if that's
10:52
the connector or the lead
10:54
itself and obviously with the phosphor
10:56
and I'd imagine that phosphor may well
10:58
be tuned to get the maximum to the uh 5
11:01
cenm and actually this white one looks
11:04
like a St fairly standard product I just
11:06
found it in Mouse made by luminous
11:09
devices in fact actually I think all
11:11
these are based on various luminous
11:13
devices modules and they're you take
11:17
looks like they taking the nearest
11:18
wavelength and then just using these
11:19
filters to clean it up to get a precise
11:22
uh spectral line out of it so quite a
11:25
nice neat and um extreme
11:30
bright light source uh sure I've got any
11:33
particular use for it so I think this
11:35
might end up on
11:36
eBay but uh very pretty to look out and
11:40
without the uh risk of burning your eyes
11:43
out like you do with lasers so I thought
11:45
it would be interesting to try and
11:46
figure out the runtime of this things
11:48
like this we usually keep some sort
11:49
record of runtime cuz leads degrade over
11:51
time I couldn't get any software to work
11:52
through the USB face but then had a
11:54
thought probably going to be writing the
11:55
runtime periodically to the e s prom so
11:58
I just just scope up that and noticed it
12:00
was doing right every 5 minutes so I
12:02
just ran it for a while periodically
12:04
reading the E squ I just held the pick
12:05
in in reset and um put clip over to read
12:07
the square prom and found it was writing
12:10
one location per color every 5 minutes
12:12
so if one color was on it would write
12:14
that location every 5 minutes and just
12:16
increment it by one so after doing a few
12:18
tests with different colors of different
12:19
time periods it looked extremely
12:21
straightforward it's like a four bite
12:22
count for each color looking at the
12:24
original data that was in it all the
12:26
colors apart from Green were reading
12:28
zero and the green was reading four
12:30
indicating a total 20 minutes run time
12:32
ever if it was turned on run for a short
12:34
time then turned off that might not have
12:36
been counted but even so indicates this
12:37
thing wasn't used a great deal the whole
12:40
s process of doing a run can be several
12:42
hours but it'll only be doing probably
12:43
the Imaging at the end of that so you
12:46
wouldn't expect to be running for a long
12:47
time but say a single color for 20
12:50
minutes over its whole lifetime does
12:52
seem a little bit on the low side okay
12:55
let's look at the camera un fortunately
12:57
I managed to not record any sound when I
12:58
did this it's also a couple of months
13:00
ago so there's going to be a few details
13:02
that I've forgotten so I'm just going to
13:04
dub this over the original footage so um
13:07
take the lid off see this massive great
13:10
heat sink so this is a pel cool camera
13:12
we've got this blower fan producing a
13:14
fair amount of air flow through
13:16
it the connector here there's the ccds
13:19
mounted on the board on the
13:24
right this unplugs so we've got a bit of
13:27
power supply stuff on here
13:29
USB interface I think that's the Cyprus
13:32
microcontroller High speeded USB
13:34
interface there's a zyink spon fpga some
13:40
RAM and there's a couple of ATD
13:42
converters can't quite read what those
13:45
those are but anal
13:47
devices um little bit of bodgery around
13:51
here extra decoupling obviously they
13:53
have having some noise issues this is
13:55
around the ram chip quite a lot of extra
13:57
capacitors been added there
13:59
uh there's a couple of amplifiers prior
14:01
to the HD converter buffers or Andor
14:05
amplifiers taking the CCD
14:08
signal um bit more power spy stuff here
14:11
this is probably all to do with
14:12
generating the various CCD bias voltages
14:14
they uh need quite a lot of exotic
14:18
voltages next board down is just a
14:20
shield and an interconnect
14:24
boardly shielding the power supply stuff
14:26
from some the more sensitive an log
14:28
stuff
14:31
and this is the bottom board which is
14:32
just all power supply
14:34
stuff as you can see tons of capacitors
14:37
or Transformer in
14:42
there and this is the CCD which is a uh
14:47
very impressive thing this is a kf50 100
14:50
originally by true sense then codec
14:53
there ON
14:54
Semiconductor it's 50 megapixels uh the
14:58
only price I could find was this one
15:00
5,000 bucks and the architecture you can
15:03
see there actually two separate halves
15:04
which explains the Dual AZ converters
15:06
and two amplifiers it's literally split
15:08
down the middle and duplicated so it's
15:10
outputting two streams in parallel just
15:13
to keep the bandwidth sensible and it's
15:15
got this amazing um diffraction effects
15:18
it's got micro lenses over the pixel so
15:20
there's there's a bit more Optics going
15:22
on than on a normal
15:25
sensor few more bodges on the CCD board
15:28
including this wire which isn't really
15:29
tacked down very well which is a bit uh
15:32
bit of a mess quite a few bits around
15:34
this board where they've uh tacked
15:36
various bits on which is not super
15:38
impressive looks like CCD drivers on the
15:40
left with those 3 ohm um damping
15:43
resistors on the
15:47
output get a few more little bodges
15:50
around here some of
15:52
the and there's this separator the
15:54
silica gel to keep the moisture down but
15:56
there's this separator that actually
15:58
appears to be cut from piece of
15:59
antistatic
16:04
bag and this sort of thermal block on
16:06
top of this stack of three pel Cola
16:12
modules so as with any Stacks they get
16:16
um larger as they go back towards the
16:18
heat sink because each P's got to not
16:20
only take the heat from the previous but
16:21
also the waste heat which is quite
16:27
significant you see a little temperature
16:29
sensor here that copper block which
16:32
makes contact with the back of the
16:37
CCD and this's the back of the
16:40
pelas this then contacts the heat sink
16:44
on the uh rear there a few thermal pads
16:46
as well for some of the other power
16:47
components on this
16:51
PCB okay I've connected this uh camera
16:54
up I found some drivers on the disc that
16:56
seem to work under Windows 7 couldn't
16:58
get to install under Windows 11 though
17:01
um in the absence of any sort of lens or
17:03
being bothered to the proper amount I've
17:04
just put some f over it and put a little
17:06
pin in there to make a pinhole lens and
17:08
software gives a few options I'm not
17:11
entirely sure what all these are there's
17:12
obviously a clock frequency 22 MHz low
17:15
gain and with PFG no idea what that is
17:19
something something game programmable
17:20
Something game perhaps ver exposure
17:23
types I think focus is just like a
17:25
continuous grab until you tell it to
17:27
stop not entirely sure all these options
17:30
are obviously exposure time uh triggers
17:33
there ex external hardware trigger inut
17:35
you just trigger using a um thing on
17:37
screen so the resolution is 8176 by
17:40
6132 and you can actually bin those
17:42
where you combine multiple pixels to get
17:46
increased gain at the expense of lower
17:48
resolution down this is a 10sec exposure
17:51
obviously of the pin hole it's very uh
17:53
intensitive so we just stand still now
17:56
downloading it there's the uh exposure
17:59
so when it's
18:01
um there's a little status thing down
18:03
here so that tells you the um exposure
18:07
[Applause]
18:09
time it's this is just it
18:15
downloading um it is quite I'm seeing
18:18
quite a lot like smearing I think that I
18:20
don't know whether that's just due to
18:21
pixels overloading or something else I
18:24
mean yeah it's not it's not um out of
18:26
the question that there's something not
18:27
totally right about this camera
18:28
certainly was bodge wise on there um I
18:31
don't I'd imagine a camera like this
18:32
it's got a fairly narrow range of
18:34
intensities that it's happy with I'm not
18:36
going to spend a great deal of time on
18:38
this if you're interested in this camera
18:40
maybe for astronomy or something and
18:42
happy to sort of take the risk of it may
18:44
not be uh perfect I'll um I think I'll
18:47
stick this on eBay along with the
18:48
Illuminator I'll put a link down in the
18:50
description to the listing take your
18:52
chances to grab a bargain so for example
18:54
here we see this vertical streaking so
18:56
I'm not sure how normal that is this is
18:58
on fairly bright scene looking out the
19:02
window if I cut the exposure time down
19:04
on that it's now 1 second
19:07
exposure again most of the image
19:09
disappears again this is looks like it's
19:11
possibly over still overloading here go
19:14
that go down to say say quarter a
19:16
second so again I think there might be
19:19
some Auto gain control going on here um
19:21
this is with the PFG option let's try
19:23
turning that off and see what
19:25
happens so I'm not sure this is actually
19:27
more streaking or which just it's
19:29
cranked up the gain all the dis display
19:31
gray scale to show what um you know the
19:33
range of things that it's captured
19:36
there's one of one of 12 things in the
19:38
software there's um you can see of you
19:40
can't seem to read out the temperature
19:42
of the pelta cooler but you can set the
19:44
temperature and if you said it's a
19:46
different temperature you see the power
19:48
consumption jump up running the cooler
19:50
to get the temperature you requested but
19:52
I can't see anything anywhere that tells
19:54
you whether the cool is at the at the
19:56
temperature other than the power
19:57
consumption going down and there's no
19:59
temperature read out
20:03
here and just some yeah this is just
20:05
sort of very basic software I'm sure
20:07
there's like an API for more
20:09
sophisticated
20:10
applications but so if you know anything
20:12
more about these cameras please um stick
20:14
in the
20:15
comments um incidentally when I was
20:18
editing I didn't notice there was a bent
20:19
pin on the um CCD but I did fix that
20:22
before doing these tests and also
20:24
reactivated the um silica gel desicant
20:26
cuz I noticed it was uh I was getting
20:28
bit of condensation on the window but um
20:31
yeah so a couple of uh interesting but
20:34
maybe not particularly uh useful pieces
20:37
of Kit except for someone that's got a
20:38
very specific use so um I'll stick a
20:42
I'll stick these on eBay put a link in
20:44
the description and say hopefully
20:45
someone could actually make some uh good
20:47
use of these things
Example Output:
**Abstract:**
This video presents Part 2 of a teardown focusing on the optical components of a Fluidigm Polaris biotechnology instrument, specifically the multi-wavelength illuminator and the high-resolution CCD camera.
The Lumen Dynamics illuminator unit is examined in detail, revealing its construction using multiple high-power LEDs (430nm, 475nm, 520nm, 575nm, 630nm) combined via dichroic mirrors and filters. A square fiber optic rod is used to homogenize the light. A notable finding is the use of a phosphor-converted white LED filtered to achieve the 575nm output. The unit features simple TTL activation for each color, conduction cooling, and internal homogenization optics. Analysis of its EEPROM suggests extremely low operational runtime.
The camera module teardown showcases a 50 Megapixel ON Semiconductor KAF-50100 CCD sensor with micro-lenses, cooled by a multi-stage Peltier stack. The control electronics include an FPGA and a USB interface. Significant post-manufacturing modifications ("bodges") are observed on the camera's circuit boards. Basic functional testing using vendor software and a pinhole lens confirms image capture but reveals prominent vertical streaking artifacts, the cause of which remains uncertain (potential overload, readout artifact, or fault).
**Exploring the Fluidigm Polaris: A Detailed Look at its High-End Optics and Camera System**
* **0:00 High-End Optics:** The system utilizes heavy, high-quality lenses and mirrors for precise imaging, weighing around 4 kilos each.
* **0:49 Narrow Band Filters:** A filter wheel with five narrow band filters (488, 525, 570, 630, and 700 nm) ensures accurate fluorescence detection and rejection of excitation light.
* **2:01 Customizable Illumination:** The Lumen Dynamics light source offers five individually controllable LED wavelengths (430, 475, 520, 575, 630 nm) with varying power outputs. The 575nm yellow LED is uniquely achieved using a white LED with filtering.
* **3:45 TTL Control:** The light source is controlled via a simple TTL interface, enabling easy on/off switching for each LED color.
* **12:55 Sophisticated Camera:** The system includes a 50-megapixel Kodak KAI-50100 CCD camera with a Peltier cooling system for reduced noise.
* **14:54 High-Speed Data Transfer:** The camera features dual analog-to-digital converters to manage the high data throughput of the 50-megapixel sensor, which is effectively two 25-megapixel sensors operating in parallel.
* **18:11 Possible Issues:** The video creator noted some potential issues with the camera, including image smearing.
* **18:11 Limited Dynamic Range:** The camera's sensor has a limited dynamic range, making it potentially challenging to capture scenes with a wide range of brightness levels.
* **11:45 Low Runtime:** Internal data suggests the system has seen minimal usage, with only 20 minutes of recorded runtime for the green LED.
* **20:38 Availability on eBay:** Both the illuminator and camera are expected to be listed for sale on eBay.
Here is the real transcript. What would be a good group of people to review this topic? Please summarize provide a summary like they would:
A new Shaft..
euanthecooper
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A new shaft and a new style of driver..
Captions are recommended as I speak funny but Let me know what you guys think in the comments, feedback is appreciated 🙌
As always thank you to all you Coopers club members🙏 giveaway coming next week!🎁
A new Shaft shows the construction and repair of essential coopering tools. Learn about the components of a driver and different methods for replacing worn shafts. A medieval-style driver is also crafted.
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euanthecooper
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Pinned by @euanthecooper
@willieclark2256
15 hours ago
‘Over time our shafts get smaller’
201
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4 replies
@wotterthose4511
15 hours ago
The amount of very careful word choice in this video to avoid saying something accidentally naughty is admirable also that poor band saw blade appeared to be begging for mercy
136
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5 replies
@kallrobin
14 hours ago
Very happy Alec introduced me to your channel! To see someone so brilliant at their work still learning new stuff as prestigeless as you do is very refreshing!
71
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1 reply
@oafkad
11 hours ago
I love how pure your videos are. No sensory overload. Just a cool person with a cool profession!
17
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1 reply
@GraftingLad89
13 hours ago
Love seeing a guy who clearly has alot of passion for his trade.
29
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1 reply
@generalgod4326
15 hours ago
Ok the broom handle got me chuckling
28
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1 reply
@DerSascha
15 hours ago
"It's actualy awesome, honestly! I'm not gonna use it."
Brilliant! I love your videos! Keep it up big man. Peace
27
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1 reply
@gerryjamesedwards1227
15 hours ago
So this is why we call them screwdrivers! They're versions of these tools for torquing rather thn twatting. I didn't even know I didn't know that...... until I knew it. How odd.
Cheers Euan!
21
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@rustyredbeard
13 hours ago
I speak fluent bandsaw and yours, my friend, was screaming "I'll kill us both!"
3
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@michaelleather9744
13 hours ago
I wish I could replace my small shaft
5
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@Vikingwerk
11 hours ago
2:16 the Third reason the shaft is wood instead of metal is because coopering goes so far back in time, and long ago, metal was expensive So making only the vital tip out of metal, and having the shaft be cheep replaceable wood, made the most sense to keep the cost of the tool down.
4
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@stonyjupiter1481
13 hours ago
Never thought that I would be so invested into coopering. Thank you!
6
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@william5694
13 hours ago
I would love to see another colab with Alec, focused on tool maintenance and repair. Such as how to remedy cold chisels that have gone soft, reforming driver shoes, etc. But, done outside of a blacksmith's workshop as sort of a 'tips for other trades'. You two have a great chemstry on screen, with the transerable skills between your trades, and the shared enthusiasm for them.
On this driver: the difference in the geometry of your body seems like having that handle lets you make precise heavy hits with the hammer with greater ease. Just what it looked like to me; that the kinesis seemed more natural. Might not be true.
6
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@spray_tric
13 hours ago
My inner child giggled the whole through this video
3
Reply
@MaxWahlen
15 hours ago
he is so cute when he gets exited to try the new driver
9
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1 reply
@collinvauk1937
15 hours ago
Love hearing Alec is mentoring you
26
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@winorthwoodsliving
15 hours ago
What size timber do you need for hickory and ash? In the US and have both. CM sizing is fine.
20
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4 replies
@rayhinman2101
15 hours ago
Thank you for showing us a day in Cooper’s life my friend keep this trade alive. Appreciate it.
5
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@matthewb8229
6 hours ago
I haven't had this much fun watching someone who totally loves what he's doing in a long time. To top it off, you're a fellow south paw!
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@JaT-gb20
14 hours ago
Just a quick woodworking drilling tip, drill until the point of the bit sticks through and then you can flip it over and drill back through the other way to avoid blowing out the wood. :)
4
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1 reply
@P.r.i.m.o
8 hours ago
When he says like and subscribe my only wish is i could subscribe more than once. This is the only channel i've ever felt the need to be able to do that
Reply
@Peotre
5 hours ago
Impressive skill, Euan! I hope your videos can keep coopering alive. There are a surprising number of blacksmiths, and there should be lots of coopers as well. It is an art that shouldn't be lost.
Reply
@Mitch_Ryder
10 hours ago
The metal driver and wooden mallet combo looked promising.
Reply
@Hector-vx5yc
15 hours ago
Bless your heart Euan!! Thank you so much for sharing your experience and journey with us! We absolutely love your content and channel!! Love and respect from Washington state 🇺🇸. PEACE ️!!!
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1 reply
@ThePanickedMonk
10 hours ago (edited)
3:39 Paraphrasing, of course, but "Grab your Ash, replace your Shaft"...sounds like t-shirt material to me. :)
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@mikemastrangelo6141
12 hours ago
Elm might work well due to its interlocked grain. For instance in wagon wheels, traditionally the hub was elm, the spokes were oak and the felloes were ash. Traditional British Windsor chairs used the same design principles. The seat was generally elm, the legs were oak, and the spindles and bows were ash. Because of the interlocked grain, elm is difficult to split.
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@CappsPlace
14 hours ago
Sadly, all my Ash trees are dead and rotten due to the Emerald Ash Borer. Hundreds.
1
Reply
@dustinmiron4298
15 hours ago
12:18 my man said "OSHA who?!" Lol
2
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@quartysts1880
7 hours ago
Man this is such an interesting trade, glad the work is being done to make the Internet more aware of this
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@samstanage
11 hours ago
I gotta admit, it didn’t think there would be too much more for you to show us beyond what you showed on Alex channel. But I just keep being delighted by each new video. Keep coopering!
Reply
@xeode
15 hours ago
nice video chap! captions are recommended you say? have heard far tricker accents, wonder who is struggling
3
Reply
@BottleOfCoke
12 hours ago
Please protect you hearing. As someone with tinnitus, I'm begging you!
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@_pixelslayer_221
15 hours ago
Fantastic skill thanks for sharing this skill and expertise
4
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@verndahl3848
14 hours ago
Now Dad has a nifty broom for sweeping off the work bench!
1
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@davel3541
15 hours ago
enjoy the tales and demonstrations
3
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@YTRiku0990
12 hours ago (edited)
When setting the head of a hammer, an axe or any other weighed tool: don't hold the head like you did, but grip just the handle and pound the butt of it on a hard surface like an anvil or a stone. The inertia of the hefty tool head will push it along the shaft and wedge it on. A split wedge, or less elegantly, a lag bolt, will secure the shat to the tool head after you have it seated.
BR. a rural Finnish fan that grew up on an end-of life cattle farm transitioning back to forestry.
Reply
@picklesnoutpenobscott3165
13 hours ago
All the shafts in this video had this old lady looking askew like I was Benny Hill …he puts a ring on his shaft…. Woodturner, maker, and I appreciate hand crafts! Thanks for sharing what you do
1
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@coyjin
13 hours ago
my wife also says she prefers small shafts. She says the big ones hurt.
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@The_Smith
10 hours ago
I wonder how elm wood would work for the driver shaft, it's quite split resistant. And yeah, I gasped when you hit those two hammer faces together . . .
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@shmaknapublar
12 hours ago
It seems like your custom hammer would make a good driver if the tapered end were finished with that application in mind. You could strike it with a hammer that is softer, like brass, so the tool lasts longer and the hammer is the consumable part. Love the channel. :)
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@sarchlalaith8836
6 hours ago
Euan try bullet wood... Very very tough.
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@JusDoc
14 hours ago
Just random bit of support from a viewer who came in via your collab with Alec, it's astonishingly fun just watching your enthusiasm for your work. The overall vibe you give off is that you're genuinely primarily motivated by the idea of preserving the craft and sharing your passion for it with a wider audience. It reminds me of old Mark Rober videos from back before he blew up and had the budget for crazy high production videos and animations. So long as the passion is there, I know I'll be watching!
1
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@NJBmedia
12 hours ago
You've taken to YouTube so well. Polished videos already
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@BarryJKeenan
7 hours ago
I work in a cooperage at a museum in the US. When I have kids visit I use the driver with the handle so they can hit the driver while I hold it and they won't accidentally whack my hand.
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@Zaznin
12 hours ago
Great video, your enthusiasm and hoy are genuinely wonderful. I'd love to see some more cooper smithing. Thanks to Alec for introducing us to you and to you especially for being so willing to share your passion for the craft of coopering with the Internet.
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@Steelbackuk
14 hours ago
Mhhh thinking about the design of the driver, it falls under the banner of" if it ain't broke don't fix it"
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@FoolVHP
14 hours ago
So fun to get an insight into something new as a person who would never be a cooper but likes to learn about how shit works. Thanks for the video <3
1
Reply
@0-Commie_Cat-0
1 hour ago
Somebody get this man a new broom
1
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1 reply
@ostrichbean
11 hours ago
Cool to see Toby Segar in the cooper's club. He clearly has good taste.
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@r0nd0n39
11 hours ago
The joy you bring to your craft is a real treat.
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@alphaswiss3459
12 hours ago
you know what i realy appreciate it because it feels like im in your work shop and you actualy talking personaly to me (us) and finding out new things and just be fully honest
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1 reply
@kholinar4819
14 hours ago
If you cut too much off the wedge end of the shaft and the shoe doesn't fit, try cutting off the narrow end of the wedge and pulling the shoulders back. This basically moves the wedge "up" the shaft without changing the angled faces of the wedge. You'll end up with a shorter shaft, but it lets you correct a too-thin wedge.
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@techman8817
30 minutes ago
It’s empowering to make one’s own tools.
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@TheMixmastamike1000
10 hours ago
Coopering is freakin badass.
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@isntjames
13 hours ago
Everyone loves new shaft.
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@MrThemetricsystem
13 hours ago
Nerd here with a bit of engineering theorycraft I wanted to mention. Since you're working them around a radius for the hoops I would think that the shoes would be best forged into a concave shape rather than straight lines so that you have a greater surface area making contact instead of straight lines. It would spread the impact of shoe on hoop across the whole edge and reduce wear dramatically, while at the same time delivering more force from each swing into the blows.
As a visual example:
Your current shoe end looks like this from below: | |
A potential version with better contact would look something like this from below: ) (
You'd need to figure out the approximate radius and have it forged to fit the curve but in theory it could be a big improvement and maybe even a cool video. "Building a better Shoe"
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@seamseams
2 hours ago
Using the driver with a handle sometimes will be good as a change of posture. Lovely video!
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@slimfunk
14 hours ago
Brilliant as always Euan. Wonder if this retro-graded driver would be less damaging to your driver hand, get a nice rubber grip put on it
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@Assumedwalk
13 hours ago
Maybe try 1/4 sawn ash because that makes a great ace handle so it must be similar for your drivers
1
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@Zeiga_Aether
13 hours ago
Love the long form stuff
1
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@ManjiVegeta
3 hours ago
The shafted driver looks more ergonomic, might be hand to have around if you get old and have back problems.
Reply
@Ben_Lehnert
14 hours ago
I'm not actually knowledgeable about anything than wood, but my first thought was: "Hmmm, maybe using bovine horn for the shaft would be an interesting experiment!" With regards to wood: I'd love to see you get your hands on mesquite wood...I think you'd be astonished about its' durability.
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@ModelsExInferis
9 hours ago
You missed a trick there Euan, you should have said, "...my daily driver"! I'll be me coat.
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@CuzzyWuzzy
9 hours ago
I’d love to see some black smithing. get that forge fired up.
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@tomfinn739
9 hours ago
I like the way you skip through. I've seen a circle marked, and a bandsaw trimming wood, but I haven't seen a driver build.
One might think you've talked to Jamie about editing videos.
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@bullyakker
9 hours ago
American here, introduced to coopering and you via Alec Steele. You speak quite clearly, even I did not need to use captions. =) Good to see you hammering away on a proper sized shaft... ~Nobody wants to use a short shaft ~SHE said =P
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@timbodenbender3880
12 hours ago
Euan! You need to make one out of Osage Orange! It’s much denser than Ash, and it can take a HELL of a beating! I’ve made mallets out of Osage that have survive 16 years now of beating the absolute tar out of things around the shop! Not to mention it’s very pretty if you keep it oiled, a gorgeous orange/yellow color!
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@jawkneeeeee8855
14 hours ago
I bet there are some artists watching this that would love to take your discarded shafts and carve them into some nice for you to keep
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@aquilesmasdmd
7 hours ago
That is much safer for your hands. Anything to protect the money makers !!!
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@shenkyeirambo5601
9 hours ago
heh, you've been a cooper about as long as i've been a machinist. small world
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@FactoryStage
12 hours ago
I love watching craftsman channels like this. Introduced from Alec’s channel. So glad he did .
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@Artiick
12 hours ago (edited)
That is indeed a nice shaft
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@jonathanoconnor2700
10 hours ago
Euan you’re grand mate, love the videos! I think a blacksmithing one to repair the shoe would be sweet!
Love the work, n wish ya all the best bud, I’ll definitely be watchin all the vids you put out!
Reply
@TheBlackWolf939
13 hours ago
I think that may be the worlds shortest broom
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1 reply
@cibuliux
14 hours ago
I think the handle on the driver despite being not so comfortable it should be faster because you can hit even stronger without a fear that you might hit your hand
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@ace-o-spuds4255
1 hour ago
You are so delightful, I love the long form videos too!
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@thedutchest
11 hours ago
Next video: "I bought a lathe to make a new broom handle!"
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@jasonboren9951
10 hours ago
Absolutely want to see this forge and blacksmithing work!
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@Thundermuffin93
11 hours ago
Thank you for another. Excellent video, sir. Interesting to think about how this would handle usage compares to something like timber, framing, chisels, which in Japan, have a very particular process for densifying and kind of rounding over the end so that it doesn't splinter, they use a ring to help that as well. Also, have you tried any wood where it has interlocked grain? Something like Elm? Both Ash and Oak split super readily with an ax, whereas something like Elm makes you sad when you swing an ax into it.
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@lynxg4641
14 hours ago
I'm going to say, I think I'd prefer the handled driver, keep your hand away from a possible miss hit.
Guessing you made the barrel chair? If you did, think that would be an interesting video as well - how to convert a barrel into a chair.
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@Avboden
6 hours ago
Wait a sec, is your sander just a drill held in a vice? That's brilliant! Though a very inexpensive tool to get a real one.
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@winterhorse290
11 hours ago
Amazing work!
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@lukekavangh-burton685
13 hours ago
It's grate to see you keeping a old trade alive and giving us all the information of what maybe are grand parents or grate grandparents might of been doing a long time ago keep up the grate work
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@swashed.
12 hours ago
absolutely shafted
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@alfgundersen1058
13 hours ago
So so so super cool
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@AndyFromBeaverton
7 hours ago
If you want to get lazy, get a rotating platform to put your barrels on. You can stand in one place and do all your hammering while the barrel rotates automatically.
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@brianshelley88
12 hours ago (edited)
Wood shaft protects the shoe. Steel would cause premature wear.
Ash and hickory perform the same.
What you really want for a tool like this is ironwood also called hornbeam. It’s not good for handle but the champ for impact tools.
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@samuelthesolobaid6974
13 hours ago
Let's gooooo a new euan vidéo ! Love those keep on going !
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@brianmccoy9548
11 hours ago
Love to see the new channel!
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@EVguru
14 hours ago
Modern mass produced hammers have very carefully controlled heat treatment and are made from very carefully controlled alloys. It's pretty much impossible to splinter the edge on one. I've been hitting hammers with hammers (for certain tasks) for decades without problems. Best not to do so on hand crafted hammers though.
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@551taylor
11 hours ago
Just a thought but, as you heated up the shoe to profile it, why not use the residual heat to burn in the shaft before plunging into oil or water to cool and harden it? As you know, cooling metal also causes it to shrink, making the bond tighter and thus transferring more energy into the hoops…
Also, if you do the same with the ring, you won’t have to mushroom the wood and you can hit the ring instead. This will preserve the shaft length for longer, like it does with wood chisels, and even more energy will go into the hoops as the mushroom won’t absorb the energy from the hammer…
Perhaps your blacksmith can advise?
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@prdoyle
15 hours ago
This looks familiar
2
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@TheFrostDrake
14 hours ago (edited)
What about a lead handle? Soft mushrooms and weighty.
Why does it seem like a learning tool. For the newbies still learning to swing accurately
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@FlumboFrommelkont
14 hours ago
Just trying to mime the movement I can tell how using a handle on your driver gives an immediate mechanical advantage, and there's less strain on your shoulder and upper arm trying to keep the tool lined up with your hammer.
Maybe those medieval workers really were on to something lol.
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@DanglesPaintball
11 hours ago
Elite thumbnail
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@epikto1000
15 hours ago
always learning something new. Thank you!
1
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@olliechill.1
13 hours ago
Let's go! Love the videos, it always shows when a person loves what they do.
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@sealandersoundscapes6403
11 hours ago
Bless your energy and love for your trade it's infectious peace
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@ZethPeck
14 hours ago
I love hearing about how Euan uses his shaft
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@chibs3666
12 hours ago
Would be cool to have a rotating platform for the barrel instead of having to walk around it while hammering down the rings
Another upside is not having to walk past the camera while doing it!
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@jasper-qi7dl
15 hours ago
some blacksmithin repairs of your cooper tools sounds awesome
1
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@blaindweed
11 hours ago
Love it!
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@RoanGratny
8 hours ago
I’m literally burning ash firewood rn
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@asamz.1
4 hours ago
"Ash or pass."
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@ph0bias
4 hours ago
Brother I have no idea how you kept a straight face filming this
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@KYPatriot7018
8 hours ago
I really enjoy the content . Im really hoping you and Alec try to make more of your tools .
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@ProFramerJoe
10 hours ago
You ought to get ahold of Eoin Reardon! He is a woodworker/YouTuber from Ireland! He may have some extra Irish Ash he could spare!
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@skodbolle
14 hours ago
Great stuff!
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@colinmckenna6733
12 hours ago
I love it osha who keep on keepin on
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@blend3rman796
15 hours ago
Fresh Euan vid to go to sleep to! Cheers
3
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1 reply
@vidmantaslukosaitis7216
7 hours ago
Your English accent is one of the beautiful reasons I like watching you. But if you think we might not understand some of the words you pronounce there is always nice to have written explanations of what you’re saying. keep going you’re doing great.
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@Tvngsten
15 hours ago
2:25 Euan is European, but without rope. No idea what that can mean, but there it is.
1
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@colelagudi8664
5 hours ago
Mate great content, keep it up
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@huevacho97
7 hours ago
When you put a handle onto a hammer or axe, etc, you put it upside down and hit the bottom of the handle. It's counter intuitive but you generate a lot of force and you don't need a hard surface to hit against. Wich gets harder to get the longer the handle
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@huevacho97
8 hours ago
Dude has a leg where his arms are supposed to be
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@Modi718
14 hours ago
You can order hickory baseball bats from the states. Might be able to cannibalize em for a stronger shaft
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@schell1974
8 hours ago
Start the handle in the hole, next let the head hang down and smack the end of the handle while holding in mid air (like you did at the end but pick it up off the anvil) the handle will drive right through the hole as the head slides up. This works on hammers, axes, etc.
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@jesseshort8
14 hours ago
I wonder if that's Toby Segar from Storror's name on one of the heads? It'd be awesome if he was a member.
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@KirkWagner147
6 hours ago
Great video man
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@BrianRust89
9 hours ago
DR Barton made a “hoop driver” in the US in the 1800s and it looks like a cross peen hammer but it has a soft face (so you can hit it) and it has a hoop driver where the cross been would be. I have a couple. It’s the American style of the handled hoop driver I guess. Thanks for the video!!
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@Rob_McCauley
7 hours ago
As you are delving into the world of content creation, you cant go wrong with mixing things up and throwing some copper black smithing into the mix. Maybe even go back to Alec and get him to teach you how to make your own handle rings?
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@KeithCooper-Albuquerque
12 hours ago
Cool video!
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@DogwithEyes
9 hours ago
If the shaft was a little longer you could clip it to your belt with some rope. Never have to look for a space to put it down while driving hoops.
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@jacobbroe5279
29 minutes ago (edited)
Hah!. Saw the plaque from the ‘death or glory’ boys / The Queen's Royal Lancers at Osnabrück germany. When we (the Prince’s life regiment - Denmark) visited in ‘96 there were the story about a lad who started a chainsaw in the barracks after a long evening at the enlisted men’s Pub on the base…he went through a door into his room (as you do) and then sat it down on the carpet… the bugger took off and chewed up a superlong line in the carpet. he apparently only got a good bollockin’ and had to pay for the door and carpet. Lol. Somehow the officers understood that it was only boys being boys. Imagine that!!
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@michaelwade9348
13 hours ago
Euan, would have liked to see you cut the angles on the band saw as well, otherwise, you're very enthusiastic! Keep it up.
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@Squeakel1
2 hours ago
Love these videos they’re informative and entertaining!
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@martinjohnson7061
13 hours ago
Great video euan
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@jamesshepherd2649
11 hours ago
Yes do the black smithing :)
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@gadget6623
33 minutes ago
Using a spade it to go through, drill a small diameter pilot hole through first and reverse face the back. Stops the rip out.
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@miked5551-m1r
7 hours ago
curious if you could add a striking cap like those used on wood chisels
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@luciomaffei3272
14 hours ago
IF THE SHOE FITS
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@oliverlongrigg3334
2 hours ago
Would love to see some blacksmithing
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@ChristianOehring
13 hours ago
Man, I gotta tell you - I'm from the states, and I appreciate having your videos to break up the insanity, our country is so buck-wild right now its nice to have something to look forward to.
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1 reply
@qwertyuio8965
6 hours ago
Man I don't know anything about anything but that band saw does not seem in good heath
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@Nicoauboutdumonde
14 hours ago
Hi Euan!
Few tips to maybe increase the videos (make no mistake here I really love watching your content, it's just to try helping)
Try putting an ND filter to reduce glare on some shots and I guess it's called a pop filter on your mic (pardon me if I make a mistake I'm french and I don't have every bit of technical vocabulary regarding videography)
Otherwise keep up the good job! It's really nice to see you through your job! Even though I don't need casks at all
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@EVguru
14 hours ago
Is it just me, or does that bandsaw blade only have gums, not teeth.
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@stewartwoerle6351
10 hours ago
Hey mate, another good video, well done. I think if you were to make more handled hoop drivers, try carving up something like your hammer handle. Think it would be more comfortable than a round, narrow broom handle. I reckon it would give better control and larger hands need larger handles. Cheers
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@Yewtewba
12 hours ago
Your thumbnails are quite unique
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@nusslpwurst8155
4 hours ago
here in germany the drivers got handles on them i saw some at some bavarian events
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@redlionforge9173
10 hours ago
Where would we send that hickory?
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@DaxHewitt
14 hours ago
Excellent video. A real character
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@aprole87
11 hours ago
Maybe I missed an explanation, but why does the end have to be mushroomed before use rather than allowing it to naturally occur during use? Does that ensure that the striking end is as flat as possible? Does the ring keep the shaft from splintering or is it to maintain a consistent mushroom end? Sorry for all the questions, just curious!
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@OrchMC
6 hours ago
Man… The charm in cutting that broom handle… Knowing full well youll still be using it. Made my heart laugh for some reason. Cheers. Dad wont understand, good thing thats not necessary!
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1 reply
@ued_general5805
8 hours ago
I would love to see a repair shoe video! Also you had me dying sawing off that broom handle your poor father lol...
Do you happen to know the specific reasons shoes are made differently? Just curious, I have one that is completely flat on the end and concave on both sides. However the concave is different one each side. Almost like it's meant to hug tighter to particular size barrels.
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@jarghost-l9f
14 hours ago
You’re a national treasure mate
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@siryogiwan
2 hours ago
watching you use it with the handle, it looks more ergonomic, you'd probably get less jarring too
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@aleksandrborodin5803
6 hours ago
Бочка вместо стула! Варвар.
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@AtticusGrim
11 hours ago
Hickory? My guy I own like 6 pecan trees, I can try to mail you some good size logs/branches if you want?
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@darthrabbidus7603
45 minutes ago
have you ever thought of trying some Australian hardwood?
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@Macvombat
2 hours ago
In the short clip you showed of the cooper doing cooper things his driver and hammer are significantly smaller and his hits lighter. Obviously the hoops are also narrower so that might have an influence. If you can lower the weight of your tools and achieve the same goal your body will thank you when you've done this for another 20 years. Worth trying out I reckon.
I couldn't help but notice that the clip cooper also hit his hammer on a metal driver but I would assume that his driver isn't hardened. A metal driver would absorb less of the force when striking and allow you to hammer less for the same result (I assume). It would be far more noisy though.
Could be worth trying. Making a metal driver might also be a fun video of you doing some blacksmithing.
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@rjlatham999
14 hours ago
is this another example of a saying coming from coopering? if the shoe fits...
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@markwilson7369
14 hours ago
Lets see your forging skills
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@TheAbeKane
3 hours ago
Save the shoe!
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@TAITheAsian
8 hours ago
Hey 80k subs!
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@OriginCorey
13 hours ago
DO THE REPAAIIIRR
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@nalwin
15 hours ago
What a cool video, wonder if that style of driver with a handle might be better for larger casks or smaller ones
2
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1 reply
@picklesnoutpenobscott3165
13 hours ago
Flip it head down and hit the handle to drive on the head….
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@gthippie
6 hours ago
Just curious, would there be any benefit to having the driver handle 90° from where you put this one? Having it stick out from the cask instead of along the side? 0 experience so feel free to disregard.
Keep up the great work, your enthusiasm is infectious, having so much fun watching these videos and learning about your craft!
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@ruairiallen3354
13 hours ago
Your bandsaw blade looks really dull. it looked painful going through that wood.
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@v2mrstevenofv259
12 hours ago
13:05 your mustache does not count as a mask. Please use one
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@nukewurld
4 hours ago
For the algorithm
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@VikOlliver
2 hours ago
Going medieval on it's arse...
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@KhrisKringle
13 hours ago
Are you concerned with ergonomics in your job? for the sake of longevity?
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@PendragonDaGreat
14 hours ago (edited)
That bandsaw blad was screaming for its life. Probably want to get that replaced soon.
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1 reply
@meanygreenyyt5893
10 hours ago
You should do some smithing
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@takumi2023
2 hours ago
id be careful of the handle driver. since you've introduce a weak spot in the wood by drilling a hole, the handle might pop out from those sides with the forces involved. It won't now but after a few thousand swings you might pop the handle out sideways.
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@Gary_C_90
13 hours ago
Been checking local swap meets and antique shops for old cooper tools. Got my wood shop setup and my blacksmith shop ready to go. Got a bunch of quarter sawn white oak. Gonna try making me a firkin in the next few weeks. Thanks again for the inspiration.
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1 reply
@AxlMetcalf
13 hours ago
Chatting rubbishhhhh
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@chrisbint634
11 hours ago
loving the videos mate! So glad you met Alec too! I'm genuinely interested in coopering after seeing your videos, how would you go about getting in to it? If i even can?
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@AKAchillez
9 hours ago
So the British have two shafts together?
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@nolandnobel2986
15 hours ago
Algorithm +1
1
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@hardknoxgfx6759
9 hours ago
Hey, what if you cut the handle down to be a little less than half? Both safety and less cumbersome?
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@Hunter-x9p7i902
13 hours ago
Do you have cauliflower ear from fighting?
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@rossblaszczyk8238
14 hours ago
With the wooden hoops did they still use metal shoes or did they use wooden one?
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@Lunch_box
10 hours ago
I live in texas, we used Osage Orange for fence posts as its more readily available than hickory would you be interested in getting sent some of that instead of hickory?
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@muneeb-khan
3 hours ago
Doesn’t using the driver with the handle mean you also don’t have to bend down as much? Might be good for the back?
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@NatTate-f7e
15 hours ago
Hickory is better for that purpose. They your views what size of hickory material you need.
1
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@BrandonGrahamForge
7 hours ago
Do you seal the shaft with oil like linseed? Does that have any positive or negative effects?
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@lukepatty2166
2 hours ago
Why do you need so many drivers? Do they all have different angles for different jobs?
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@f.n.schlub
10 hours ago
Thought you might find these as an expansion of uses for your skills:
https://youtu.be/D007T9CVQ20?si=oJxxgxcCbsGJv0G_
https://youtu.be/M_F2LTlBJXs?si=7ZnhHmw_h8qiU8is
Know any tanners? It's not just a Japanese thing, and the town youngsters are avid.
https://youtube.com/shorts/Q8VNrWfy7PE?si=C5I9zMEeBVA-O6Wv
https://youtube.com/shorts/qQzTYXgwHSk?si=y4BD7cZoqsy5MTBG
In my hometown, founded 3 centuries ago, water mains made from redwood brought water from the mountain springs. After most of the tannins were leeched out by filling the segments with hot saltwater, then multiple rinses, the buried pipes gave almost 2 centuries of service. Redwood is naturally anti-fungal, anti-microbial AND insect proof, and so, highly rot-resistant. Unlike the pipe segment shown here, our large mains were fabricated from 50-75 foot redwood planks with V notches cut their length. Heated and steamed in long adobe arched ovens, the grooved planks were pulled out, redwood pitch glue was applied to the grooving and the planks were wrapped to form octagon and hexagon pipes with only a single external seam the entire length. The exterior was liberally coated with hot redwood pitch then wound with rope. The entire pipe was then coated with multiple layers of pine tar, soaked deeply into the rope windings, and repeated until a smooth exterior resulted. The pine tar resisted even Willow root intrusions.
It seems like a lot of work, and it was for a small group of Franciscan friars, a small Spanish garrison and a local native population numbering less than three thousands; especially the felling of Sequoias.
Don't let anyone say our ancestors were primitive. The Muslim waterworks at Alhambra and Generalife` in Spain were masterpieces of hydrologic engineering and materials science.
I really like your recreation innovation.
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Transcript
0:03
I'm not chatting rubbish. Maybe they
0:06
were on to something. This is the
0:09
driver. These are all drivers. They're
0:12
one of a Kooper's most important and
0:14
used tools. So, the purpose of a driver
0:17
is to get hit. You hit it with your
0:19
hammer so you can hit the tips down. And
0:21
over time, our shafts get smaller,
0:24
meaning that we have to replace them.
0:26
But thankfully, they're quite easy to
0:28
replace. So, there's a couple of ways to
0:30
replace the shaft, but first I'm going
0:32
to tell you a bit more about the driver
0:33
itself. So, drivers are made up of three
0:36
components: shoes, the shaft, and rings.
0:39
Okay, so let's break it down. This is my
0:41
main driver. Um, I actually made it out
0:44
of um oak. Drivers ideally want to be
0:47
made out of ash. H, but I couldn't find
0:49
any in my workshop. I thought I'd ran
0:51
out, but thankfully I found some more
0:52
for the ones we're about to use in a
0:54
second. But this is made out of um oak,
0:56
so it looks incredibly old. It's not.
0:58
The sho is very old itself, as is the
1:01
ring, but the shaft is only a few months
1:03
old, and it started off probably a few
1:05
inches taller, but over time it just
1:07
gets squished down. I actually removed
1:08
the mushroom, hence why the ring keeps
1:10
on falling off. So, I want to replace it
1:12
anyway. H, but additionally, the shoe
1:14
should come off nice and easily as well
1:17
after a few hits.
1:22
Yep, there we go. So, we got the shoe
1:24
off. So, a closer look at the shoe. The
1:28
shoe is the main component of the
1:29
driver. This is what actually um Okay,
1:31
so let's let's break down the three
1:33
components. So the shoe is the main
1:35
component because this is what actually
1:36
locks onto the hoop. Uh so the shoe has
1:39
got a lip on either side and so it
1:42
doesn't matter which side you hit um the
1:44
driver on like hold the shaft on. Um
1:47
it's it's universal. It works on both
1:49
sides. Um, so yeah, these lips latch
1:52
onto the hoops which allow you to hit it
1:55
and that's what gets the hoops tight,
1:56
making the cask strong, holding it
1:58
together. Um, the shaft is obviously
2:01
what um I believe they're made out of
2:04
wood. People have suggested in the past
2:05
making them all out of metal and stuff
2:07
like that. What Alec told me, obviously
2:09
he's my go-to metal guy now, um, he he
2:12
reckoned that one, it would be too
2:14
heavy, and two, there may be vibrations.
2:16
Um, so this is the way that they've
2:17
always been. Coopers have always done
2:19
it. I'm gonna actually make a new type
2:21
of driver um at the end of this video
2:23
that I've never used before and it's
2:25
like a medieval slash like European one.
2:27
I mean I say European I mean we're
2:29
British but we don't use um we've never
2:31
used the the drivers like this. They've
2:33
basically got a shaft going through the
2:34
middle of it, but we'll save that for
2:36
the end of the video. Let's stick to my
2:37
bread and butter uh driver. So uh the
2:40
shaft, like I said, they're ideally want
2:42
to be made out of ash. We don't have
2:44
hickory over here, but if there's any
2:45
Americans that want to send me some over
2:47
or I'll try and get my my hands on some
2:49
in the future. And it would be great to
2:51
do a test to actually see what's better
2:52
for the longevity and if it actually
2:54
makes a better product as hickory. Who
2:56
knows? But I I certainly know that ash
2:58
makes a better product than oak. Um
3:00
that's for sure. Um so yeah, the ring is
3:03
what holds it all together. Uh so
3:05
without the ring, uh the shaft just
3:07
splits. Uh, unfortunately the rings do
3:10
break, but thankfully my engineer at
3:12
work has repaired a couple of rings
3:14
because I've got quite a few drivers,
3:15
but I've got a few main go-to ones. I do
3:18
have some longer shaft drivers, but I
3:20
mainly save that for days with a Kooper
3:22
or if I'm doing like a really small task
3:24
myself, like a clock, and so I've got a
3:26
longer shaft to hit it with basically,
3:28
but I prefer a small shaft. It's what
3:30
I'm used to. It's what it's just what
3:32
you get used to basically. So yeah, as a
3:34
result, they get beaten down over time.
3:36
we get small shafts and we have to
3:38
replace them. So, let's grab our ash and
3:41
let's replace the first shaft. There's
3:42
two methods to do it. I'm only going to
3:44
show you the easy method in this one.
3:46
The f the harder method of, of course,
3:48
actually sizing it up off the shoe
3:50
itself. This one, we're just going to
3:52
take the old shoe and like the old
3:56
shaft, sorry, and size the new shaft off
3:58
that one. Let's do it. So, here's our
4:01
block of ash. And here are three
4:03
components. We don't need these two at
4:05
the moment. We only need this one. So,
4:08
let's grab my fancy marker pens that my
4:10
dad bought me on Wish. They're actually
4:12
really No, Timu, sorry. They're actually
4:14
really good. So, all we need to do is
4:17
line our old shaft up against the new
4:20
bit of wood,
4:22
scribe on
4:25
our new shaft area,
4:29
and then flip her over. So, we've got
4:31
that angle.
4:33
And now get this angle.
4:40
Sweet. So now I'm getting a a straight
4:42
edge and doing it's not going to be that
4:45
straight. Doesn't matter. I'll fix it.
4:47
I'll sort it out. I'm pretty good. And
4:50
then yeah, I want this one quite short.
4:52
I prefer I prefer quite a shorter driver
4:55
for my usual breadand butter stuff. So
4:57
let's make this one quite short. So now
4:59
we want to connect all the ends
5:00
together.
5:09
Nice.
5:10
Okay. So, that's nice and square all the
5:12
way around. Can you see that?
5:17
So, that's nice and squared all the way
5:18
around. I just need to cut that out now.
5:21
Is there probably a better, more neater
5:22
way of doing this? Probably. But, it's
5:24
worked for me for a decade. And when the
5:27
drivers aren't made of oak, they work
5:29
pretty well. So now we're at the band
5:31
saw and we're just going to cut it out.
5:40
So this is the important part. We've got
5:42
to see if the shoe fits.
5:45
So I actually cut them always a bit
5:47
wider than what I need them cuz you can
5:50
always take a little bit off whereas you
5:51
can't add it back on. So this just needs
5:54
a little bit trimming off the edges.
5:57
Uh the tapered parts. It just needs to
5:59
taper the edge parts in a little bit
6:01
more. So, we'll do that. But first,
6:03
let's draw the ring on top.
6:18
Well, the shoe fits. Let's just take off
6:20
this white part.
6:52
Oh, it fits.
6:56
Well, we need to get the ring tight now.
6:57
So, I'm going to hit it a few times with
6:59
that bit of work.
7:13
All right. So, now we got the ring tight
7:15
on there. It's time to mushroom over.
7:43
So now that's mushroomed over. The ring
7:45
is not going to come off hopefully. The
7:48
final thing I'm going to do to it before
7:49
we test it out is put my block mark
7:52
stamp that onto the handle onto the
7:55
shaft.
7:58
And there we go. Look at that. Lovely.
8:02
Nice driver. Let's go and test it out.
8:06
How much nicer How much nicer is the new
8:09
shaft than the old one?
8:33
So, that driver is a beauty. That works
8:35
absolutely lovely. That will continue to
8:37
be my number one. But I have a bunch of
8:40
different shoes and drivers as I've
8:42
shown you. Um, but it's not just the
8:45
shafts that take a beating. The shoes
8:47
do, too. And I've actually got a few
8:49
shoes that had flattened out. Uh, so
8:51
this one, as you can see, is completely
8:52
flattened out. There's no more lip
8:54
remaining on it. So, I'm going to fix
8:56
that one. H, but as you know, as I'm
8:59
sure most of you know, I've been hanging
9:00
around with Alex Steel, who's a
9:02
blacksmith, and he gave me a forge. Uh,
9:04
so the other day the first thing that I
9:06
did when I got back from spending a day
9:07
with him was like, "Oh, I'll try and do
9:09
a bit of Cooper smithing and save my
9:12
shoes." Um, so what I did was I put the
9:14
shoe inside of the forge. I'm going to
9:16
splice this over the top so you can see
9:17
it. So I put my shoe inside of the
9:19
forge, got it nice and hot, just tried
9:22
to focus the heat on the tip because
9:23
obviously that's the area that I'm
9:24
working on. And I made a vital mistake
9:26
that I had no idea that I did. But um, I
9:29
sent these videos to Alec thinking he'd
9:31
be really impressed. I used my really
9:33
good hammer, my brand new one that I
9:35
literally made the day before and was
9:38
hitting the face of it onto the reverse
9:40
of my old hammer onto the spllay inside.
9:43
So, hitting a hardened bit of steel onto
9:45
the reverse of another hardened bit of
9:47
steel. Alex like, "No, what are you
9:49
doing?" So, I had to go back and quickly
9:51
examine my hammer, but thankfully it was
9:53
all right. It was built to last. It's a
9:55
robust bit of kit, but I will not be
9:57
trying that again. But as a result of
9:59
it, I did actually manage to rescue the
10:02
shoe. Um, they did actually bow out a
10:05
little bit. I should have put some like
10:06
an insert on the inside to stop them
10:08
bowing out. But, so I'm not going to do
10:11
that right now, but in another video, if
10:13
you want to see, I will I'll show you
10:16
exactly how to save that sho uh shoe and
10:18
then put it onto a new shaft. But we'll
10:20
save that for another video. The final
10:22
shaft that we're going to do today is
10:24
the medieval one. So, I've been a Kooper
10:27
for a decade, and I've always looked
10:29
into the trade, and I've seen pictures
10:31
and um videos of Koopers using drivers
10:34
with shafts in them, like handles. Um
10:38
so, they they the hand their hand is
10:40
clear of the shaft, meaning less likely
10:42
to injure themselves. Uh so, let's make
10:45
one. So, I'm going to take this driver.
10:47
It's nice and wide. Um drill a hole
10:49
through it, put a stick in it, like a
10:51
little handle. I think I'm going to chop
10:53
the end off a broomstick. I keep on My
10:55
dad's getting really annoyed. My broom
10:56
handle keeps on getting shorter and
10:58
shorter and he's a lot taller than I am.
11:00
So, he's having to bend over more. But
11:02
yeah, I'm going to chop a bit more off
11:03
that handle. Ram it through there and
11:06
yeah, report back to you once I've done
11:08
it. Give it a few hits and give you a
11:10
verdict. Let's go.
11:15
About that long will do, I think. But my
11:18
dad won't be able to use this anymore. I
11:20
still might.
11:48
Let's grab the driver and put a hole
11:50
through it. So, I reckon
11:54
let's just squeeze it in there.
12:12
Need to make sure I'm doing it. Need to
12:14
make sure I'm doing it straight. That'll
12:15
be pretty hard. But let's go.
12:24
Sweet.
12:26
Sweet.
12:38
Looks pretty straight to me.
12:46
So, I think what I'll do is because it
12:47
doesn't quite fit, I think I'll taper
12:49
off the edge of my shaft. Well, my
12:53
handle shaft, not my driver shaft. Taper
12:56
that and then hammer it in. And
12:57
hopefully that'll give a good friction
12:59
fit that will do the job. Let's give it
13:01
a go.
13:07
Let's hammer it in.
13:10
I'm actually really excited to try this.
13:12
So, I'm just going to friction fit it.
13:13
Give it a few hits
13:18
and hopefully it fits. Well, I mean, it
13:20
seems to be doing pretty good right now.
13:24
And then we'll test it out.
13:30
I'm really excited for this actually.
13:33
Medieval SLGger
13:37
driver shaft. Hell yeah.
13:46
Oh,
13:50
this is actually working really well. I
13:53
hope I hope it work. Oh, it feels a bit
13:54
heavy.
14:02
It's hurting my hands a little bit.
14:09
Let's give it a few hits with the
14:10
hammer.
14:14
Oh yeah. Let's protrude it a little bit.
14:21
Look at that. Well, one second. I'm just
14:24
going to sand off this edge piece. make
14:25
it feel a little bit smoother.
14:32
What? Check that out. That is awesome.
14:36
Let's go and test it out. All right, get
14:39
out of the way, main driver. We're on
14:41
with the medieval style. Let's go. Oh,
14:45
this is exciting.
14:50
Ah,
14:56
that is actually awesome.
14:59
Honestly, I mean, I'm not going to use
15:01
it. It's like I'm still not going to
15:02
replace my main driver because it's a
15:04
bit more cumbersome. I can hit twice as
15:05
quick with that thing. But for, for
15:08
example, I've got a day with a Cooper on
15:09
Saturday. It's Thursday right now. It's
15:10
Thursday night right now. I've got a day
15:12
with a Cooper. They will be using this.
15:15
This will be an optional thing. If they
15:17
want to use this, they're more than
15:18
welcome. But that is absolutely
15:20
brilliant. Let's flip it over and give
15:23
the hoop another drive from the other
15:24
side.
15:29
What the
15:35
I'm not chatting rubbish. And maybe
15:38
actually this is actually really good.
15:40
Maybe they were on to something. Well,
15:43
yeah. So, let's just leave the video on
15:45
that. That's a high, isn't it? Re
15:48
revolutionary
15:50
reinventing the driver, going back to
15:53
European/Mie style. It works. If you
15:57
enjoyed that, guys, please uh like and
15:59
subscribe. And if you want to see me
16:00
messing around with some blacksmithing
16:02
and try and repair that old shoe, let me
16:04
know in the comments. See you in the
16:05
next one. Peace. So, as always, just a
16:08
quick shout out to all my Koopas Club
16:09
members, my firkin and my hogs heads
16:11
guys. We've got 20 or 30 new names to
16:14
add to the list now. I think if any more
16:16
of you join, we're gonna have to get
16:17
some bigger signs. But I guess that's a
16:20
good problem to have. So yeah, so thank
16:22
you for everyone for joining. We're
16:23
actually doing a giveaway next week on
16:25
live. So yeah, just to say thank you for
16:27
you guys to being part of the club. So
16:29
see you in the next one. Peace.